Clydesailing

West Highland Week 2005

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tangle o the lamposts

The 26th Tennents West Highland Week started, after the ceilidh in a tent at Croabh, with a very light wind beat to Oban. Unfortunately the wind such as it was pretty much ran out at sheep island and the last bit was extremely frustrating. However the fleet was buzzed continously by a helicopter filming the scene, for, we later learned, Visit Scotland the organisation previously known as the Scottish Tourist Board. I suspect this means that whatever they filmed will be lost and never seen by anyone or at best used to promote golfing holidays in Perthshire. On arrival in the environs of Oban we carried on to Dunstaffnage Marina where all who showed up were either given a berth or rafted up one way or another with the usual friendly and helpful service. Oban itself has failed to thrive in terms of yachting facilities although some of the mooring buoys off the esplanade have been restored. We heard that competitors had voted with their keels and that Oban Yachts on Kerrera was half empty - something of a change from the days when Jon Fitzgerald had the place rafted solid. Reports of the new proprietors were not, to put it politely, encouraging and a major disincentive for the average partygoer was the absence of an affordable ferry service after 10.30pm. Sitting in the sunshine in the outside bar of the Wide Mouthed Frog at Dunstaffnage encouraged us to think of eating there. This turned out to be a very expensive decision and we have no hesitation in stating that £11.95 for a respectable but not extraordinary plate of fish and chips is completely out of order. The food may well be quite decent but we found the service haphazard, being conducted by persons who appeared to have an incomplete grasp of the language and the prices quite silly. In mitigation the Frog does stock real beer from Loch Fyne but it was too hot to drink much of the stuff. We do quite like Dunstaffnage marina and look forward to the completion of the new toilet block because the existing toilets and showers are minging and few ladies seemed able to get a shower that was remotely hot.


The following day was, for the restricted sail classes, the jaunt down past Bach Island with to-ing and fro-ing over to Mull then a meander up the Sound of Kerrera. As it happened the wind was almost non existent and the race was stopped at the first mark of the course just beyong Bach Island by which time most of the crews had engaged in various forms of self-mutilation due to the extreme frustration. There was a lot of bunching and fending off at the finish line and the whole race was really a waste of time. One or two cunning crews attempted to work the tide an arm's length from the shore but we had no time for that nonsense. However it was extremely warm and sunny and we had the privilege of being shouted at by the historic 'Sceptre' by cheekily nipping past their bows not quite as close as it appeared from 60 feet back. Sceptre, we understand was the first 12 metre America's Cup (unsuccessful) challenger and was built by Robertson's of Sandbank in 1957. By by the time we had motored back north again a really pleasant sailing breeze had appeared and the photo above shows Oyster of Ashton having just crossed the finish line on the northern spinnaker course in what is clearly a respectable amount of wind. In the evening Dunstaffnage offered the delights of an evening themed on 'Pirates of the Caribbean' and it takes little imagination to conjure up the scene involving eyepatches, plastic cutlasses and various unlikely extemporised costumes. We just couldn't figure out what the very strange foreign band were all about though.


Tuesday reversed the courses and we plain sail wimps had a sausage/ triangle race on the northern course. The wind got up to 20knots plus with the Class 4 monoliths rushing about in an intimidating fashion at the start line. At the end of the second beat we decided to call it a day and wimped out back to Dunstaffnage. A lot of people were of the view that the day races were too long and that the committee would be much better running 2 races rather than a very long single affair which can turn into a tedious procession. The photo above is Vaila, the BB10 which won Class 3 overall and seen here on the Tob-Ob race.

Wednesday started with a light wind beat across the Firth of Lorne but as much of the fleet approached the Duart area the wind began to pick up. Eventually many boats including us were wiped out by a gust that certainly went well over 30 knots. On Troika we had a lengthy struggle to find the jib and get it on barehead style along with a reef in the main and by the time that was completed most of our competition had pushed on without us. We pressed on, if not manfully given the girlies on board in what seemed to average F5/F6. The venerable relic Ivanhoe lost its wooden mast and Tanit, the Kip based Bashford 36 was later awarded the Endeavour Trophy for going to their assistance. It was the kind of day where considerable damage would usually be expected but beyond the occasional blown sail I heard of no other incidents. On the other hand there was in my opinion too much close crossing of the port-starboard variety which is not really seamanlike in rough conditions. Our most memorable incident was with a certain new 25 footer which crossed us on port causing us to effect a serious bear away to avoid collison. We assume that the helmsman reckoned we just wouldn't risk hitting him or even protest (we didn't) but we think that somone of that experience should display better judgement. Anyway our gastronomic advice in Tobermory is to head for the chip van on the fisherman's pier. Absolutely top class. The pizzas from the Island Bakery are good too.

On Thursday there was mutiny on Troika as Anne who had been doing all the winch grinding and a lot of the sail changing the previous day decided that her arms were too sore and went for a massage in what I mistakenly assumed was the Tobermory brothel. Missing out on such delights I went for a sail on Tulla, Dugald and Val Glen's new Maxi 1100. The course was a very undemanding reachy affair up and down the Sound and it wasn't a terribly interesting race apart from the third mark which had drifted south to within a boat length of the navigation buoy. There was a curious situation with boats queuing up to pass one by one through this narrow gap while being swept up by the tide on to the buoy. Total chaos really but they moved the mark back for the second round. Towards the end of the race Mishnish (Maxi 1000)who were way down the pan, retired , protested the committee and were awarded average points. Neat. The Maxi 1100 is a nice boat though. Later we went to the balti hoose with the crew of Mojo. Adequate.
One minor rant we would like to insert here is the state of toilet/washing facilities in Tobermory. Tobermory really, really needs a toilet/shower block as has been in existence in Tarbert for many years. The public toilet on the esplanade is revolting and is a disgrace to the town. The Harbour Authority seems to be getting its act together and a shower block should be their next objective. The Mishnish may be a great late night pub - and we liked the 'beer garden' - presumably installed in advance of the long awaited smoking ban - but the showers are squalid and only two of the three were working. Progress from last year was that the shower which previously had a broken window plugged with a black bin bag was now non-functional and the window had been boarded up. Even if you can get in they must be the shortest running showers on the west coast. You have to work quickly to get the soap off before the power runs out. Notwithstanding that the place really could do with a good scrub and a bit of inward investment and it is hard to believe that it does not have the cashflow to allow this. The showers in the Youth Hostel were a better bet but the queues were immense.



The last day turned out to be a run down the Sound of Mull all the way to Oban. There was a decent breeze all the way and it stiffened up as we approached the Firth of Lorne.There was a lot of close racing with the spinnaker boats catching the white sail efforts. It was a return to Oban in record time and everybody enjoyed it thoroughly.It was certainly a whole lot less arduous than the trip up. We found rounding the last mark with a crowd of enthusiastic spinnaker boats giving us just a little water to be quite hair-raising. In the end class 4 overall was taken by Dansos from Strangford Lough but the Sigma 38 'Fortitude' pulled a respectable 3rd behind the mighty Sceptre. The pic above is Shamal, Gordon Rae's Laser 28 with some additional highly experienced RGYC helmsmen on board. They finished 2nd in Class 3. Also a mention for Now Or Never, our near neighbours at Kip scoring some very respectable scores in their first season in the Oceanis 36.
Later, the extended prizegiving was carried out with the usual efficiency but the ceilidh band which came on thereafter was in our opinion not a little lacking in joie de vivre. The disco after that played a succession of increasingly desperate cheesy numbers succeeding in clearing the floor reasonably well. Perhaps we had been spoiled by the wonderful band in the Mishnish the night before and we realise that the aim is a family night that all can enjoy but we're not sure how many people actually do enjoy the present format in that barn of a hall.
Also we were somewhat disappointed that the Tennents beer vouchers were only exchangeable in a very few bars in Oban. This restricts their usefulness greatly. Maybe Tennents are happy about this but while we are used to them being useless at Croabh and at the prizegiving, not being able to use them in Tobermory was rubbish hence we gave MacGochans a wide berth and headed to the Mishnish where the excellent Deuchars IPA was on tap until it ran out to our considerable frustration. Anyway the Tennent Caledonian trophy for the best family yacht was won by the Impala 'Mersonary' which had a crew of 8 although not all at the same time. Overall we pretty much enjoyed the week but if we go back we will probably attempt the spinnaker class as Class 4 with those massive yachts being sailed by sometimes quite numerous crews is not really quite our thing.
Full results can be found on www.whyw.co.uk